CHINA FASHION BUSINESS

Participant: LengYun Fashion Group 6

Date: January 15, 2022

Moderator: Lila-Zhengzhou-Intern deputy of the Group 6

Introduction

After the three “cash-burning” costumes (Lolita, Hanfu (traditional clothing of the Han Chinese), and JK Uniform) heat up , dolls followed to be popular among the young girls, including BJD, SD, Ob11, BLYTHE, and cotton dolls. I will share the kinds of dolls, jargon in this “doll circle”, the pattern making and production of the doll’s clothes.

Introduction to different kinds of dolls

1. BJD (ball-jointed doll)

Moderator: Let’s start with the BJD. Its full name is ball-jointed doll, like the one I’ve just posted. It has movable joints, and it’s very delicate. It’s amazing that the doll’s body is detachable. Moreover, its clothes, makeup, hands, feet, hair, and eyeballs are all changeable. Do you know why it costs so much?

Ivy: Because of its delicacy. Are they all imported?

Moderator: Its price ranges from a few hundred to a few thousand yuan. It is exquisite not only in its workmanship but also in its material. It is made of resin, and feels different from normal plastic dolls.

Yuxing: How can we get it?

Ivy: Will it be produced in limited quantities? How many will the manufacturer make? 

Miao: I know that there are makeup artists who change the look of dolls, and reforming a doll costs 10,000 to 30,000 RMB.

Moderator: The most famous brands that produce this type of doll are Volks in Japan, Soom in Korea, and Dragon Soul in China. We can get the correct version of this dolls via Taobao (China’s Version of Amazon). Now I’m going to introduce the size of BJDs. Do you know that BJDs have different sizes? Do you know the meaning of the one-sixth doll or one-third doll, which we often hear? Usually BJDs have one-second, one-fourth, one-sixth, one-eighth and one-twelfth sizes. They are scaled down to humans. 180 cm divided by X (X can be 2, 3, 4, 6, 8, and 12) is the height of the doll. For example, the height of one-sixth doll is 180 cm divided by 6. Please look at the pictures.

2. SD(Super Dollfie)

Moderator: In fact, I didn’t know what the SD was at first. The SD (Super Dollfie) is the most famous line of BJDs released by the famous Japanese doll maker Volks in 1998. In other words, SDs are also a collection of BJDs. But because they are both delicate, many people mistake all the BJDs for SDs. It’s normal to do so for the people first set foot in this circle.

Qichen: Is there any obvious difference between them?

Moderator: The most obvious difference is that SDs are produced by only one Japanese company, Volks, while BJDs can be produced by many manufacturers. 

3. BLYTHE

Moderator: BLYTHE, also known as Little Boo, is a kind of dolls from the United States. It is generally 11cm in size, with big eyes, big head and small body. There is a pull rope behind the head of the doll, which can control the eyes to turn different colors and angles. Here is my friend’s new BLYTHE this year.

Miao: Yeah, I have a friend who also has this kind of dolls. It has a big head.

Yuxing: I also know this. Their eyes can also be replaced and one can draw on their eyelids.

4. Cotton dolls

Moderator: Cotton dolls are also cute. Do you know where they came from? 

Yuxing: I don’t know. But I join this circle is because of cotton dolls. My classmate is a fan of BTS, and she bought many cotton dolls of them.

Moderator: Yes. Cotton dolls are from the showbiz, especially the community of the fans of South Korean stars. It is one of many related products being developed by South Korean entertainment companies.

Noon: Does this doll have a meaning?

Moderator: Cotton dolls are popular because they are cute and easy to carry with. It is loved by fans circle. Because the cotton doll at that time was made as the image of the idol, the fans took the doll as if they were with the idol, so the cotton doll was very popular among consumers.

Noon: Why do many people like to collect dolls? Is it a hobby? Isn’t it like having a dog and a cat?

When I’m in a bad mood sometimes, I feel healed just keeping the doll company. It is more convenient than keeping cats and dogs. But this kind of consumption is not necessary, just a way to buy happiness.

Moderator: Yes, and dolls give a sense of security. On the one hand, we can not only enjoy its good appearance and the happiness of raising a daughter without being responsible for the kid’s daily routine, which is inseparable in raising a real person. We only need to change its clothes and keep it in good repair. On the other hand, it can relieve the loneliness and get spiritual comfort by dressing up dolls. I myself like to make clothes for dolls.

The rules and terms of the doll circle and the experience of raising a doll (take BJD as an example)

1. The rules and terms of the doll circle

Moderator: Do you know why I keep talking without posting the doll pictures? Now Let’s talk about the rules and terms of the doll circle. Do you know pirate versions of the three cash-burning costumes are unacceptable by their fans?

Yuxing: Do these dolls have pirate versions too?

Moderator: Yes. Take BJDs as an example. Pirate version is the most unacceptable thing in the community of BJD fans. Some companies will illegally copy the new version of dolls released by other companies. So I didn’t send any picture of BJDs for the private and official pictures cannot be used casually. Therefore, the circle of BJD fans pays great attention to protecting the originals.

Yuxing: Can’t you send pictures of dolls that are already on sale?

Moderator: Yes. People in this circle all love dolls genuinely.

Noon: It’s indeed immoral and disrespectful to pirate the original version of others.

Moderator: Yes. The legitimate doll uses better material than the pirated one, and every dolls is made by the doll master carefully and laboriously.

Miao: Lots of people remake the Pop-Mart dolls and make clothes for them, right? Are they the same?

Moderator: Yes. It takes a long time and skills for a doll master to fabricate a doll. Fans often exchange dolls in the doll circle. They also sell the dolls they already have to buy new dolls. I have compiled some terms of the doll circle. Generally, there are a lot of terms that outsiders don’t understand them. Here are some of the terms. As a doll’s mother, she will be happy only seeing the doll since she had it. Z-doll(legitimate doll) and D-doll(pirated doll) is also a very important term. Sometimes it’s hard for us to tell the difference between them. But pirated dolls are banned in the circle of BJD fans.

Miao: I got it. Each circle has its own norm. It’s easy for those who just set foot in this circle to be cheated for they cannot differentiate the legitimate and pirated dolls.

Senior fans share shops which sell legitimate dolls in the doll circle, and “doll mothers” will also seriously crack down on piracy. There are people who check online every day to see if anyone has become a “D-doll” owner, and those who buy pirated dolls can never join any group of doll fans. If the new fans want to join the exchange group, they need to declare where their dolls come from, the name of their dolls and the reason to join this group.

2. The experience of raising a doll

Moderator: I will show the producer of my doll to you. Legitimate dolls usually have the producer’s name at the back of the doll’s head. My doll is from Hjdoll(http://www.hjdoll.com/).

Qichen: Do all the dolls have the producer’s name after their heads?

Moderator: Generally yes.

Yuxing: BDJ manufacturers are easy to identify because they are expensive. While the price of cotton dolls is inexpensive, and there will be people posting transaction information on various platforms such as Wechat store(Chinese version of Amazon), Weibo(Chinese version of Twitter), QQ group(like Wechat Group), Xianyu(a platform for second-hand trading) and so on. At the same time, doll mothers are from all walks of life, who may be a student or an office lady. Many dolls are not received until they have been purchased for more than half a year, and unlike BJD dolls, which are labeled with manufacturer’s name. The circle is too small and without a very authoritative and formal organization to maintain it. It’s hard for new consumers to set foot in it.

Moderator: Yes. Doll mothers contribute to make the doll circle more formal. For example, the rules of the circle of BJD fans is extremely strict.

Yuxing: How long will it take for fans to receive BJD dolls from payment to receipt of the doll? Are the dolls in stock or they are sold on pre-sale base?

Moderator: You can get them from both channels. Pre-sale may take up to half a year, private customization and limited edition are more expensive. This late delivery may happen too if it is a group purchase.

What is “made-to-order”? Is it choosing combinations of different components (hair color, eyes, eyebrows, hairstyles, etc.)?  

Moderator: You usually need to pay a deposit, and then you can choose your own doll.

Yuxing: We consumers need to confirm receipt of goods in advance after placing an order and paying. Some doll mothers host the sale events of dolls as volunteers, and they post every penny spent on the event in the QQ group. I can feel they truly love dolls.

Moderator: Doll mothers truly love dolls. For example, after buying a doll, I need to find a makeup artist to make it up, then a doll dressmaker to make clothes for it, and buy it shoes, accessories, houses, etc.

Miao: I think though doll clothes are expensive. My friend make clothes for dolls and lots of dolls’materials were made in Japan. After visiting Japan, I brought back many materials like tiny lace and buttons, which were delicate and expensive for her.

Yuxing: Compared to the expensive BJDs, cotton dolls are more accessible and I think they will have a better market in the future. Some time ago, when I was looking for a job, I found many manufacturers in Yangzhou making cotton dolls need pattern makers

The pattern making of doll clothes

1. Pattern cutting

Moderator: Next I will introduce you how to make patterns for dolls. Do you know the process of pattern cutting? Do you have any friends who are learning to make patterns recently? Have you tried to make patterns of doll clothes? 

Qichen: Well, I haven’t. But I did make clothes for dolls when I was a kid. I think we can make a pattern after getting its prototype and size. As for the formula, each pattern maker has a different approach. 

Moderator: Right. Doll clothing pattern can also be made according to a similar method. The first step of making clothes is to measure the size, and then make the pattern according to the formula. But a doll is not like a human body, so its cutting formula is different. I have two methods of making the doll patterns. One is flat cutting, the other way is modelling. When I make clothes for dolls, I use the first method first. I’m going to show you a picture of BJDs as an example, but it works for other dolls as well. The first step is to wrap the doll with plastic wrap in order to protect the doll because the material of the doll is special.

The second step is to mark the waist, bust, hip, head circumference, etc.

The third step is to cut it out and draw out the prototype on the paper. I have only drawn out the top so far. Then you can make clothes from the prototype.

Qichen: This can be called “making a prototype”.

Moderator: Is there anything else you don’t understand?

Ivy: Clear. I didn’t study fashion design but I get the general idea. 

Moderator: I also have another method, which has been studied but has not been written down. Anyone who wants to learn how to make doll clothes can consult me at any time.

Noon: Did you study on your own?

Moderator: That’s right, because I also learn pattern cutting of clothing

Production of doll clothes (modelling and flat cutting)

Moderator: Doll clothing making is divided into personal made-to-order order and group order.

Qichen: what is the price range for pattern making?

Moderator: Prices are based on the complexity of the production. For example, the doll mother gives the doll dressmaker a design sketch, the dressmaker make the dress totally based on his/her understanding of the sketch, very often it requires the dress maker’s imagination. On average price for making the dress is not low. Price of group order varies from 20 to 200 RMB per doll’s dress. But as to personal order, the price is generally not less than 300 RMB. This is the lowest price in this circle, the dressmaker is usually at entry level.

Miao: The price depends on the fame of the dressmaker. The more famous the dressmaker, the higher the price. But generally the price is almost the same with that on Taobao(Chinese version of Amazon).

Moderator: Now let’s talk about draping, which is made directly on the baby body. Draping is very suitable to make 3D clothes, and like private custom-made doll clothes (such as gorgeous wedding dresses) are generally done by draping. Two dressmakers of dolls I like are Nigel_Chia lusand GAIGAIYUUS from Bilibili(a video platform like Youtube). The couture doll clothes they make are particularly beautiful, very much like the real wedding dress.

After pattern cutting, one can assemble the dress pieces by sewing them together, the processing also requests attentiveness.

Qichen: How long does it take to make this tiny dress? 

Moderator: For professionals like us, it takes more than an hour, and longer if the design is more complicated. Clothes like the draping I’ve just mentioned needs more than several days or even half a month, and that’s why the everyone says dolls are burning money.

Qichen: Are there factories making doll clothes? Or some small studios to undertake the production? 

Moderator: There are a few small factories making doll clothes, but the majority of manufacturers are personal studios. The factories making BJDs are more than those making other dolls.

Translated by Gu Zhenheng