CHINA FASHION BUSINESS

▼The following discussion and summary from the Coldy Fashion Circle address industry-related issues. These insights are the product of collective wisdom and do not represent individual opinions. The aim is to benefit industry professionals.

Market Opportunities for Service-Oriented Knitted Design Studios

1. Most apparel brands lack specialized expertise in knitted techniques (e.g., yarn selection, knitting methods, pattern adaptation) and rely on external teams to resolve technical challenges.

The fundamental difference between knitting and weaving lies in the textile process: Knitted fabrics are formed through interconnected loops (like knitting a sweater), where localized damage can affect larger areas. Woven fabrics, on the other hand, are created by interlacing warp and weft threads in a crisscross pattern, resulting in sturdier structures. These technical characteristics lead to distinct garment outcomes—woven fabrics are more structured, while knitted fabrics are softer, making them suitable for outerwear and close-fitting garments, respectively.

The workflow for knit design differs significantly from woven design. Woven designers typically work with existing fabrics, focusing on garment design. In contrast, knit designers start from yarn selection, requiring deep knowledge of parameters like fiber composition, spinning techniques, shrinkage, yarn thickness, and post-processing requirements. For example, ZARA popularized a “flax-like tactile yarn” in fast fashion, made from polyester blends.

Knitting machines are categorized by needle gauge, with E18 to E1.5 being mainstream specifications. Higher gauge numbers indicate finer needles, requiring finer yarn counts. Functionally, machines include seamless knitting machines, standard garment-piece machines, and rare 4-bed machines for double-layered seamless knitting. Seamless knitting also offers multiple gauges, such as 18-gauge, 12-gauge, 9-gauge, and 7-gauge.

Terminology overlaps exist between knitting and wool weaving. In Guangdong, “xià shù” (down-count) refers to calculating needle counts and rows based on garment dimensions and sample density, similar to “pattern data” (e.g., shoulder width, chest measurements) in woven design. In Jiangsu-Zhejiang regions, this is called “suàn gōngyì” (process calculation).

2. Transition of export factories from OEM to ODM models demands differentiated knit designs.

Leading yarn brands specialize in distinct areas: New O excels in wool, Consinee dominates cashmere, Xialida focuses on organic cotton, Lukang specializes in acrylic faux cashmere, and Shiguang leads in metallic and specialty yarns. Recent market shifts saw Consinee lose UNIQLO’s large cashmere orders due to high prices (premium cashmere can cost up to hundreds of thousands per ton).

New O, a Chinese subsidiary of Germany’s Biella Group, has grown rapidly over the past 5–10 years. Its wool yarns are slightly cheaper than Yangzi’s, and its cashmere prices undercut Consinee, varying by composition and yarn count. After acquiring a cashmere division, New O now directly competes with Consinee. Foreign brands often specify Yangzi yarns, while domestic brands prefer New O.https://wxa.wxs.qq.com/tmpl/lr/base_tmpl.html

3. Specialization trends in niche categories, such as sportswear knitting.

Bio-based yarns offer unique advantages: natural 7A-grade antibacterial properties, moisture-wicking capabilities, easy dyeing, permanent UV resistance without additives, and triple the moisture regain rate of polyester. These yarns suit spring/summer lace-patterned sleeveless styles. Even with higher yarn costs (around ¥200/kg), total garment costs remain manageable for lightweight designs.

Knitted design studios can leverage these properties to develop application solutions for material suppliers, enhancing recognition among brand designers. This yarn-driven design approach highlights a key advantage of knit design over woven design.

4. Trend toward knitted fabrics replacing traditional materials.

 The most critical distinction between knit and woven design lies in fabric development. Woven designers are constrained by existing market fabrics, with top domestic brands limited to custom dyeing and finishing. Knit design offers greater creative freedom, as evidenced by STOLL’s pattern books.

（RESOURCE：STOLL）

Knitted fabrics can integrate multicolored zones without seams. For example, Chanel-style fabrics use chenille, slub, and bouclé yarns with rich color variations to mimic the brand’s iconic textures. While replicating Belgian castle-level yarn craftsmanship remains challenging, such specialty yarns have become major market highlights.

In denim-inspired fabrics, knitting replicates not only colors but also textural nuances. Some designs blend real denim with knitted “denim” for novel visual effects. By adjusting stitch patterns, density, and water-soluble adhesive yarns, knitted fabrics achieve denim-like rigidity while retaining flexibility. Knitted patterns can freely vary in shape—an advantage unattainable with traditional woven fabrics.

（RESOURCE：STOLL）

In outdoor sportswear, knitted fabrics excel. Designers can tailor fabric structures to body zones and movement needs, optimizing functionality—a flexibility cementing knitting’s dominance in activewear.

5. Handmade Knitting as an Art Form and Emotional Value Channel

The recent surge in popularity of handmade knitting on social media, particularly after Bottega Veneta’s runway showcase, reflects a profound shift in consumer psychology. Amid economic downturns, people increasingly seek natural and comforting lifestyles, including outdoor activities, camping, therapeutic practices, and handicrafts. This trend has fueled demand for hand-knitted bags, garments, and footwear.

Brands are now emphasizing consumer participation in design. For example, Nike’s semi-finished sneakers allow customers to personalize their designs. Some designers add bespoke graffiti to knitted pieces. While such interactive experiences often come with premium pricing, they significantly enhance the emotional value of products.

Challenges for Service-Oriented Knitted Design Studios

1. Limited Creative Autonomy for Designers

For woven designers, understanding knitting techniques can broaden creative possibilities. Take “Chanel-style fabrics” as an example: combining diverse yarns creates rich textile effects. Industrial clusters like Keqiao specialize in producing such high-end fabrics, offering designers ample inspiration and technical support.

Nike’s pioneering Flyknit technology originated from collaboration with Germany’s STOLL. As one of the oldest flat knitting machine manufacturers, STOLL and Japan’s Shima Seiki are regarded as the “BMW and Mercedes-Benz” of knitting machinery. Despite developing groundbreaking innovations over a decade ago, STOLL’s China R&D center struggled due to market unpreparedness for overly advanced technologies.

This disconnect between innovation and market readiness highlights a common dilemma for design studios: balancing avant-garde creativity with commercial viability. This challenge is particularly acute when working with ODM factories, where owners often demand immediate results—a short-sighted mindset reflecting broader stagnation in China’s apparel industry.

2. Unstable Time Allocation and Income

Recent economic turbulence has spurred positive shifts, such as growing appreciation for original designs. In sustainability, companies are innovating with materials like recycled fishing nets sorted by local elders. Though 30% pricier than conventional materials, these eco-friendly alternatives gain traction among international brands prioritizing sustainability. However, price-sensitive domestic markets remain hesitant to adopt them.

Domestic brands like MS MIN exemplify long-term vision. They maintain stable supplier relationships, only reconsidering partnerships after major failures. Their stringent standards for yarn texture and fabric quality, paired with lifetime warranties, are gaining traction among top-tier Chinese brands—some even offer free maintenance and replacements.

Knitted design studios face seasonal fluctuations. Woolen knitwear dominates autumn/winter seasons, leading to overwhelming workloads requiring additional labor and quality control. Off-seasons demand continuous skill development to avoid complacency. Designers must transcend pure design skills, cultivating comprehensive expertise to achieve “holistic integration.”

Aesthetic refinement requires persistent learning and diverse practices. For instance, organizing museum tours combines education and networking; teaching children’s art and museum courses—a decade-long side project—evolved into accredited art appreciation programs for Shanghai’s public schools. The post-pandemic popularity of Shanghai Museum underscores the value of such cultural initiatives.

3. Testing Designers’ Management Skills

For studios, success hinges on leveraging core strengths to deliver tangible value. Growing demands from export brands for recycled yarns signal market potential in sustainable design. While currently niche, rising consumer awareness promises future growth. Maintaining stable international clients, particularly those with reliable payment terms, is critical for studio sustainability.

PS: The translation is done by AI.