CHINA FASHION BUSINESS

▼The following discussion in Leng Yun fashion community is a discussion and summary of industry issues. These shares are the crystallisation of collective wisdom. (They do not represent the personal views of Leng Yun). It is hoped that this method will benefit more industry professionals!

1. Shapewear: From Hidden Necessity to Open Choice

When people think of shapewear, many first imagine it as a “tight beauty torture device,” recalling the products from beauty salons over a decade ago. In reality, many modern shapewear pieces are no longer so restrictive.

Traditional shapewear brands such as Spanx have long carried the

impression of being “like punishment to wear.” Yet why do women still buy them? Behind this paradox lies a deeper need. Most consumers experience body anxiety—women often feel dissatisfied with certain parts of their bodies, especially during postpartum recovery. The host herself purchased shapewear after giving birth, finding it effective for postpartum abdominal muscle separation.

Many women require shapewear in specific social contexts and life stages, but traditional products struggled to balance functionality and comfort—this was the pain point in the market.

Another opportunity comes from widespread body anxiety. For example, some women from ages 20 to 28 are constantly dieting. Many care deeply about their appearance. One community member shared that she had no body anxiety while studying abroad in Europe, but upon returning to China, the lack of suitable sizes triggered anxiety. Clothes in malls rarely fit, and people around her would casually comment, “Have you gained or lost weight?”

Additionally, many trendy clothes come only in very small sizes, such as the so-called “BM style.” On the other hand, some women secretly delight in fitting into smaller sizes.

SKIMS was born out of Kim Kardashian’s personal struggles with shapewear after childbirth. For years, she couldn’t find pieces that matched her skin tone while balancing cut and comfort—she even resorted to dyeing lingerie with tea bags or cutting garments to fit her needs. At the same time, she conveyed through her own experience that women shouldn’t be enslaved by body anxiety. In other words, she founded SKIMS with a genuine user-pain-point perspective.

2. Product Strategy: Balancing Inclusivity and Comfort

SKIMS’ strategy is to offer a wide range of colors and sizes so shapewear adapts to different body types and needs. When SKIMS declares, “It’s not about making you thinner, but about loving your body as it is,” is this meeting real demand or simply political correctness?

From the host’s observation, both self-pleasing and socially-pleasing motivations drive shapewear purchases.

Fabric is SKIMS’ standout feature. Its stretch fabric technology allows material to extend up to twice its original size, solving the issue of abdominal compression common in traditional shapewear. The inclusivity of the fabric is emphasized in its “Fits Everybody” line, with sizes ranging from XXS to 4XL (nine sizes) and nine skin-tone shades.

Offering such wide-ranging SKUs comes with high R&D costs. For entrepreneurs with limited resources, the question arises: Should one focus on “basic mass-market products” or “niche specialized products”?

The host believes that for smaller businesses, customized shapewear by body type may be better, since figures vary: some women need hip lift, others stomach control, others abdominal shaping. Customization may be the best solution.

Next comes balancing multi-size, multi-color R&D costs with market returns. Large, comprehensive assortments may not suit small enterprises. Some brands have gone the opposite route.

For example, unlike SKIMS, Chinese brand Ubras produces size-free lingerie, reducing inventory pressure while gaining positive market response, though at the cost of personalization.

Sizing also remains a long-standing challenge in lingerie. Cup sizing is still not fully standardized. A single bra design may need eight sizes; accommodating A–E cups across underbands from 70–100cm would require over 30 SKUs, leading easily to inventory issues.

3. From Functionality to Everyday Wear: Breaking Scene Boundaries

SKIMS has expanded its product line, with many customers choosing to wear its body-hugging bodysuits and slip dresses outdoors—turning shapewear into everyday fashion choices.

How to balance functionality with everyday wear?

The host believes this is also part of SKIMS’ marketing strategy: giving products social attributes and breaking the conventional shapewear context. Designers must make trade-offs based on consumer personas and usage scenarios.

On SKIMS’ Instagram and other social platforms, scenario-based content such as “home looks” and “sporty styling” encourages wearing SKIMS in multiple contexts, lowering psychological barriers.

Young consumers the host interacts with often purchase SKIMS through daigou, private communities, or overseas e-commerce. Many who buy activewear also encounter SKIMS.

Plenty of SKIMS “dupes” exist on Xiaohongshu, mostly white-label. Yet such staged photography rarely leaves strong brand impressions.

Younger buyers may also be motivated by herd mentality, overlapping significantly with activewear shoppers. For them, buying shapewear can serve as social expression.

1. Authentic Marketing and Body Anxiety

On Xiaohongshu, large amounts of UGC show “curvy girls in SKIMS.” Does this “imperfect body showcase” enhance trust? The host noticed many curvy friends were influenced, sometimes leading to impulsive purchases.

When shapewear becomes everyday wear, will it replace sports bras in the lingerie market? The host thinks not—every product proves a category’s segmentation and need. This may represent an incremental market, meeting previously unaddressed demands. Substitution risk exists but is not alarming; niche markets only need to serve a small group well.

2. Differentiated Brand Positioning

Victoria’s Secret emphasizes “sexy,” Spanx emphasizes “slimming,” while SKIMS highlights “comfort.” Is this similar to Lululemon’s “yoga lifestyle” strategy that avoided direct competition with Nike’s performance focus? This positioning may be SKIMS’ differentiation strategy.

If launching a new brand today, would you choose a category with “pain points but no strong brand” (e.g., orthopedic shoes for seniors), or a category with “dominant players but evolving demand” (e.g., shapewear)?

The host believes brand-building is essential, with attention to both aesthetics and function.

She suggests focusing on “high-pain-point, low-attention” categories where creativity can excel. For instance, miniaturizing razors to fit in pockets solves a high pain point with little prior attention. Similarly, wire-free bras and one-size lingerie were once overlooked innovations that reshaped the market.

Another example: Tailanisi’s toddler shoes designed for the learning-to-walk stage—a product that catered to parents’ purchasing decisions while serving children’s needs, even if the kids couldn’t articulate them.

3. Channel Strategy and Brand Building

SKIMS’ official website accounts for most sales, but the brand also maintains offline presence through high-end retailers like Lane Crawford and Nordstrom in North America and Europe. Do DTC brands need traditional channels to build trust? The host argues yes—if online brands cannot replicate tactile, scenario-based experiences, traditional channels remain necessary. Products that only rely on traffic and algorithmic pushes cannot truly build a brand.

SKIMS has launched many pop-ups in major global cities, though it has yet to open branded stores in China. Currently, it is available only at select Lane Crawford locations. Its stores mirror the brand’s nude-tone aesthetic, with multiple skin-tone shades reflected in the design.

1. Brand Identity Barriers vs. Technical Innovation

Victoria’s Secret has also released seamless lines, yet many young consumers still find them “not cool enough.” Is brand identity a greater barrier than technology itself?

In China, leaving price aside, both VS and SKIMS enjoy popularity. “People still love VS shows—the imagery is powerful.” VS already has strong brand recognition in China, while SKIMS has not officially entered yet.

Age segmentation matters: young consumers show stronger curiosity and recognition toward SKIMS due to comfort, self-pleasure needs, and social media influence. SKIMS’ cross-scenario styling also makes it highly shareable, giving it more online buzz than VS.

As for “sexy,” its definition varies by brand: some emphasize minimal lines, others highlight complex reconstruction. This diversity mirrors women’s evolving pursuit of beauty.

2. SKIMS’ Opportunities and Challenges in China

Should SKIMS enter China? Some argue yes—the success of copycat white-labels partly validates demand. Others caution against it: “China’s copy teams are too strong.”

Lengyun suggests SKIMS could succeed if it adjusts patterns to Asian body types, as Western and Asian figures differ significantly.

In China, SKIMS’ most popular items are not shapewear but dresses, showing a gap between brand identity and consumer use. Yet this misalignment could be an opportunity for growth.

From Victoria’s Secret’s revival to SKIMS’ rise, the lingerie industry is undergoing transformation. Brands must innovate beyond product functionality, building identity, cultural resonance, and localized strategies. For international brands eyeing China, understanding unique consumer needs and offering designs tailored to Asian bodies and aesthetics may be more crucial than simply transplanting a global brand.

PS:Translation is done by AI.